In Part 2 of the Topical Series, we looked at the best science-backed ingredients for reducing dark spots and uneven skin tone. This post addresses a different concern that many of us have: uneven skin texture on the face.

Uneven texture is one of the most common skin complaints people bring to the dermatology clinic. It shows up as roughness, enlarged or visible pores, fine lines that look more prominent than they should, and a surface that just does not feel smooth to the touch. It usually comes from a slow build-up of several things happening at once: dead skin cells not shedding as efficiently as they should, pores partially blocked with sebum and debris, and a gradual loss of the collagen network in the deeper layers of the skin.

Below are four topical ingredients with real clinical evidence for improving facial skin texture.

What actually causes uneven skin texture on the face?

The skin surface renews itself constantly. Old skin cells at the top shed off, and newer cells below take their place. When this shedding process slows down, which it naturally does with age and sun exposure, dead cells pile up on the surface. This makes the skin look duller and feel rougher. At the same time, pores can look larger when they are clogged or when the skin around them loses firmness. In the deeper layer of the skin, collagen provides the support structure that makes the surface look smooth. As we age, collagen production gradually slows, and the surface starts to look less even (Boo 2021).

Not sure where to start? The table below gives you the essentials at a glance. Read on for the full science behind each one.

Top 4 Science-Backed Ingredients for Smoother Facial Skin at a Glance

Can glycolic acid really make facial skin smoother?

Glycolic acid is a type of alpha hydroxy acid (AHA). It works by loosening the bonds holding dead skin cells together on the surface, so they shed off more evenly, leaving the skin smoother and brighter. Because it is the smallest AHA molecule, it can also reach the deeper layers of the skin, where it stimulates collagen production. Clinical studies confirm that it improves skin texture, pore size, and overall surface evenness in people with rough and sun-damaged facial skin (Sharad 2013).

For everyday home use, products with 8% to 10% glycolic acid are where the evidence sits. Higher concentrations are used in-clinic and are not suitable for home use. One important rule: glycolic acid makes the skin more sensitive to sunlight, so daily SPF is non-negotiable. This applies to lactic acid too.

Is lactic acid good for smoothing rough or uneven skin?

Lactic acid is another AHA, working the same way as glycolic acid. What makes it stand out is that it is also a humectant, meaning it draws water into the outer skin layer as it exfoliates. This makes it particularly useful when rough texture is partly caused by dryness, and it makes lactic acid the gentler starting point for people with sensitive or dry skin. Clinical research has shown that 5% to 12% lactic acid applied daily produces measurable improvements in skin smoothness, firmness, and fine line depth, with both concentrations well tolerated (Smith 1996).

For home use, 5% to 12% is the appropriate range. Lower concentrations within that range are a sensible starting point if you have not used acids before.

Does niacinamide help with enlarged pores and uneven skin texture?

Niacinamide is vitamin B3, and it works differently from the acids. Rather than exfoliating, it helps regulate the amount of oil the skin produces, which reduces the likelihood of pores becoming visibly enlarged. It also supports collagen synthesis and strengthens the skin's surface layer, giving the skin a firmer, more even appearance over time. It is one of the best-tolerated actives in dermatology and is suitable for all skin types.

Clinical studies show that 4% to 5% niacinamide applied twice daily reduces pore appearance and surface unevenness within 8 weeks, with further improvements in fine lines and skin tone by week 12 (Boo 2021). It is a genuine multi-tasker, and it causes no sun sensitivity side effects.

When should you consider a topical retinoid for skin texture?

Topical retinoids are vitamin A derivatives that work from inside the skin: they speed up how quickly skin cells divide and shed, which clears the surface more efficiently. They also directly stimulate collagen production and reduce the visibility of pores. The most studied prescription retinoid for this purpose is tretinoin.

A recent systematic review of eight randomised controlled trials with 1,361 patients confirmed that tretinoin significantly improved both fine and coarse wrinkles compared to placebo, with improvements seen across studies lasting from 16 weeks to 2 years (Huang et al. 2025).

Retinoids require a prescription in most countries, are not suitable in pregnancy, and need a slow introduction period, as the first weeks often bring dryness and peeling before improvement becomes visible.

Does skin tone affect how you should use these ingredients?

Yes, and the principle is the same as in Part 2. Darker skin tones (Fitzpatrick IV to VI) are more likely to respond to skin irritation by producing a dark mark at that spot. This means that for anyone with a deeper skin tone, introducing acids and retinoids slowly matters more than for lighter skin. Lactic acid and niacinamide are the safest starting points, as both are well tolerated across all skin tones. Glycolic acid at higher concentrations and tretinoin both carry a higher risk of initial irritation, so starting at the lowest available concentration and using them two to three times per week before building to daily use is the right approach. As we discussed in Part 2, avoiding irritation in melanin-rich skin is not just a comfort goal, it is a clinical priority.

References:

1. Boo YC. Mechanistic Basis and Clinical Evidence for the Applications of Nicotinamide (Niacinamide) to Control Skin Aging and Pigmentation. Antioxidants. 2021;10(8):1315. Available here
2. Sharad J. Glycolic acid peel therapy: a current review. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology. 2013;6:281–288. Available here
3. Smith WP. Epidermal and dermal effects of topical lactic acid. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology. 1996;35(3):388–391. Available here
4. Huang HY, Hsieh YC, Lin YC, et al. Tretinoin for Photodamaged Facial Skin: Systematic Review and Meta-Analysis of Randomized Controlled Trials. Dermatology Practical & Conceptual. 2025;15(4):e2025275. Available here

This post is for educational purposes only and does not constitute professional medical advice. Please consult a qualified dermatologist for personalised skincare guidance.